India’s Lost Sole: The Art, Biology, and Betrayal of Handmade Footwear
- Madhukar Dama
- 3 hours ago
- 6 min read
The Shoemaker Says
To the Doctor:
“You see, madam… this chappal uses no glue — only natural stitching.
No toxins touch the foot, so patients with skin allergies or diabetes often heal better in these than in hospital shoes.”
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To the Engineer:
“Beta, the leather I use breathes like skin.
In summer, it cools the sole, and in rain, it grips better than rubber.
That's why our ancestors wore these during long treks without slipping.”
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To the Scientist:
“This design has no ‘left’ or ‘right’ pair when new.
But after one month, the chappals reshape exactly to your feet — like memory foam, without needing a lab.”
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To the Sportsman:
“You train muscles, but modern shoes weaken foot muscles by giving too much support.
My father made chappals for wrestlers — they walked barefoot till their arches could crush tamarind pods.”
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INTRODUCTION: THE SOUL OF THE SOLE
Before factory shoes and mall showrooms, India walked in wisdom — literally.
Traditional handmade footwear wasn’t a product; it was a living tradition — shaped by geography, health, biology, caste, and craft.
But today, this art is being erased by synthetic comfort, imported brands, and fears invented by marketing.
This article explores the brilliance of Indian handmade footwear, how it supported human biology, how it was killed by modern illusions, and what you can still do about it.
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PART I: THE AMAZING HISTORY & CRAFTSMANSHIP
1.1 REGIONAL DIVERSITY OF INDIAN FOOTWEAR
Across India, nearly every region had its own form of handmade footwear. In Maharashtra, there were Kolhapuri chappals — made from vegetable-tanned buffalo leather, stitched without nails, and known to last decades. In Punjab and Rajasthan, you had Juttis and Mojaris, beautifully embroidered with silk thread, and made to mold around the foot without distinguishing left from right.
In Tamil Nadu, Padukai sandals made from wood and toe rings were worn by spiritual seekers. Himachal Pradesh had the Pullan chappal, made by women using sheep wool and grass for snow use. Karnataka's farmers and ascetics used plant-fiber sandals made from grass, jute, and soft wood. In Odisha, tribal people used bamboo and animal hide to make anti-slippage Tiger padukas.
Each pair of footwear was tailored to the terrain, climate, occupation, and ritual needs of the people.
1.2 CRAFTSMANSHIP AT ITS PEAK
Entire artisan communities like cobblers and leather workers passed down tools and techniques for generations. Shoes were handmade, hand-stitched, and frequently repaired rather than discarded. Thread was made from natural fibers, not plastic. Some pairs took weeks to finish and could last for years or even decades. All of this was done sustainably — no toxic glue, no synthetic fabric, no landfill waste.
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PART II: FOOTWEAR THAT OBEYED THE BODY
Unlike modern shoes that try to fix or control the foot, traditional Indian footwear allowed the body to function naturally.
2.1 BIOLOGICAL ALIGNMENT
Handmade footwear supported the body’s natural needs. They were open and breathable, allowing sweat to evaporate and feet to stay cool. Their flat, thin soles gave the body direct feedback from the ground, strengthening balance and posture. Because they were handmade, they were easily adapted to individual foot shapes, unlike factory shoes which force a standardized fit.
They didn't impose artificial arch support; instead, the feet built their own strength through regular use. Circulation was never restricted, as there were no tight grips or padded compressions. The entire foot, including nerves and vessels, remained active.
2.2 BAREFOOT WISDOM
Traditional footwear preserved the connection between foot and earth. It stimulated pressure points, allowed the toes to spread, strengthened the ankles and arches, and helped prevent many modern posture issues. There was no over-engineering — the body was trusted to walk, feel, and adjust on its own.
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PART III: THE MODERN WAR ON TRADITIONAL FOOTWEAR
3.1 THE INDUSTRY OF FEAR & FASHION
Modern branding sold illusions and fears to destroy handmade footwear:
They said “no arch support is bad” — when in fact, barefoot feet grow stronger.
They claimed “flat soles are dangerous” — but barefoot tribes have perfect posture and zero arch issues.
They labeled leather as “unhygienic” — while natural leather breathes and prevents fungal infection.
They called old designs “outdated” — ignoring that those designs evolved through centuries of use.
They promoted “comfort” as cushioning — which actually numbs the body, not supports it.
Imported shoes are mass-produced and toxic; traditional Indian shoes were wise, local, and resilient.
3.2 TACTICS USED TO KILL THE CRAFT
Celebrities never wore handmade footwear publicly. Brands like Nike and Adidas pushed fake comfort. Government discouraged small leather trade under the excuse of animal rights. Cobblers lost work and pride. Rural India began seeing Bata and Paragon as signs of “development.” Repair culture vanished. Instead of fixing footwear, people began throwing it away.
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PART IV: THE NEAR-EXTINCTION OF A WAY OF LIFE
Entire artisan castes — Charmakars, Mochis, Jeenadars, and Dakkalas — were culturally erased. Their children were shamed for continuing the work. Women artisans lost income. Handmade chappals disappeared from local markets. Factory-made plastic footwear became the norm, not because people liked them, but because they were told to.
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PART V: WHAT CAN YOU DO ABOUT IT?
5.1 RELEARN WITH YOUR FEET
Start walking barefoot on safe natural surfaces like sand, grass, and soil. Observe how your balance shifts, how your body readjusts. Notice how modern shoes have altered your gait and posture.
5.2 RECLAIM THE CRAFT
Visit local cobblers. Ask for handmade chappals. Support cooperatives that make Kolhapuris, Juttis, and traditional sandals. Choose repair over replacement. Commission your own handmade pair. Gift them to others.
5.3 RECONNECT WITH THE CULTURE
Attend shoemaking workshops. Document stories of elder cobblers. Start slow-footwear movements. Talk to people about the truth behind foam comfort and orthopedic branding. Let your feet remember — they were never broken.
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CONCLUSION: STEP BACK TO MOVE FORWARD
Indian handmade footwear was never just about covering the foot. It was about walking in tune with life. Every step in a handmade chappal was a step that respected nature, the body, and the maker.
Mass-produced shoes numb us. Handmade shoes awaken us.
You don’t need a revolution. You just need to take off your shoes, look at your feet, and ask:
“What kind of ground do I want to walk on?”
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HEALING DIALOGUE: “The Foot Knows Before the Mind”
Characters:
Dr. Rekha (orthopedic surgeon)
Vivek (software engineer)
Anuj (sportsman, marathon runner)
Dr. Farhan (biomedical scientist)
Madhukar (hermit, barefoot walker, handmade chappal user)
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Vivek:
My running shoes cost ₹14,000. Gel-based, arch-support, air-cushioned. They're biomechanical marvels.
Anuj:
Same here. I rotate three different pairs — one for trail, one for asphalt, and one for gym. Can’t risk injury.
Dr. Rekha:
I get patients daily with heel pain, knee misalignment, and flat feet. Modern shoes help correct these.
Dr. Farhan:
It’s scientifically proven that certain foot types need support. You can’t walk around barefoot — that’s prehistoric.
Madhukar: (smiling)
Then maybe we should become prehistoric again.
Dr. Rekha:
You’ll develop plantar fasciitis. It’s medical reality.
Madhukar:
I’ve walked barefoot for 30 years. On gravel, hills, forests, villages. When needed, I wear handmade chappals. No heel lift. No foam. Just breathable skin on leather. I’ve never had foot pain.
Farhan:
That’s anecdotal.
Madhukar:
And your theories — are they lived?
Vivek:
But our shoes are designed with modern tech!
Madhukar:
Yes. Technology that took away your ability to feel the earth.
You now need GPS to tell you how far you’ve walked.
You need a podiatrist to tell you how to step.
You need air bubbles under your heels — because your own legs have forgotten how to absorb shock.
Anuj:
But isn’t cushioning safer?
Madhukar:
Only for people who never listen to their feet.
Your foot is a genius.
It arches, spreads, contracts, balances, breathes.
Modern shoes say: “Shut up, foot. Let me do it for you.”
That’s not support.
That’s disuse.
Dr. Rekha:
But many patients have real deformities.
Madhukar:
Created by years of misuse.
Children born with perfect feet are being squeezed into rigid soles at age two.
By twenty, they can’t stand barefoot for five minutes.
Farhan:
So you suggest what? We walk barefoot in cities?
Madhukar:
No. I suggest this:
When the terrain demands it, use shoes.
But let the shoe be humble. Handmade. Thin. Breathable.
Not a throne for your ego.
Vivek:
That sounds poetic.
Madhukar: (removing his chappals and placing them on the mud floor)
It is.
Because walking is poetry — until you turn it into orthopedic programming.
Let your foot feel heat.
Let your heel touch soil.
Let your balance return.
Let your body remember it was once wise.
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The room falls silent. Each man looks down at his shoe. Not one of them feels the ground.
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